There’s a lot of noise out there about sunscreen, what kind to use, how high the SPF should be, and which one is better: mineral vs chemical sunscreen?. As a dermatologist who’s been studying and recommending sunscreens for decades, I can tell you: most people, even many dermatologists, don’t actually understand how sunscreens work. Let’s fix that.
The difference is in how they protect your skin.
Mineral sunscreens (sometimes called physical sunscreens) use active ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These sit on the surface of the skin,reflecting and scattering UV rays. However, they ALSO absorb ultraviolet light, just the same as chemical sunscreens do, and this is what many people don’t understand.
Chemical sunscreens contain ingredients that absorb UV rays and convert them into heat, which is then released from the skin. Ingredients like avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octocrylene are common examples.
Both types of sunscreens protect your skin; one of the biggest differences is that, in general, mineral sunscreens tend to contain fewer ingredients, so they are less likely to contain one that might irritate you. In the United States, sunscreens are considered drugs. Therefore, the sun filters will be listed as “Active Ingredients” at the top of the label. The myriad of ingredients listed togther below that, are everything else.
Most of us were taught to look for SPF 30 or 50, and assume the higher the number, the better. The truth is, SPF only measures protection against UVB rays, the type that causes sunburn.
But the deeper-penetrating UVA rays contribute significantly to aging your skin; they break down collagen, cause unwanted pigmentation, and contribute to skin cancer, and SPF doesn’t tell you how well a product protects against that type of UV light.
That’s why it’s so important to choose broad-spectrum protection, which covers both UVA and UVB rays. Unfortunately, in the U.S., our labeling and ingredient regulations make this more complicated than it should be.
This is something I feel strongly about. Here in the U.S., sunscreens are regulated by the FDA as drugs, while in Europe and much of Asia, they’re treated as cosmetics. That means American sunscreen ingredients have to go through a much longer approval process. It’s a well-intentioned system that prioritizes safety, but it’s also held us back from having access to some of the most effective and stable UVA filters available abroad.
For example, in Europe, you can find ingredients like Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL, and Tinosorb S and M, which offer exceptional UVA protection. These ingredients have been safely used internationally for years, but they’re still not approved for use in the U.S. However, there is an excellent chance that Tinosorb S wil be approved in the U.S. in the spring of 2026, so keep your fingers crossed.
So, while American sunscreens do a decent job protecting against UVB (the burn rays), they’re often weaker when it comes to UVA protection. The rays that cause most of the premature aging and deeper skin damage I see in my patients.
Years ago, I used to have to sneak European sunscreens into my practice so patients could try the good stuff. Thankfully, now you can order many of these online, but the fact that American manufacturers still can’t include these superior ingredients remains one of my biggest frustrations as a dermatologist. There are websites from which to purchase these overseas products, but with the new tariffs, it is getting more difficult to find affordable ones. Might be better to take a trip to Europe yourself to pick them up and have some great meals, too! For a deeper look at UVA and UVB differences, see my post on choosing the right sunscreen to prevent skin cancer.
There’s no one-size-fits-all sunscreen. The best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually wear every day. But here’s how I help my patients decide between physical vs chemical sunscreen:
Some of the best sunscreens combine both types, using zinc oxide or titanium dioxide alongside stabilized chemical filters for broader protection and better texture.
In the U.S., “broad spectrum” labeling is fairly lenient. A sunscreen only needs minimal UVA protection to earn that label.
In contrast, European and Asian sunscreens often include a PA rating, which uses plus signs to show UVA protection strength (for example, PA+++, PA++++). The more plus signs, the stronger the UVA defense.
So when I evaluate a sunscreen, I look beyond SPF—and I encourage you to do the same. Look for zinc oxide or titanium dioxide on the label, or for international brands that include advanced UVA filters like Mexoryl or Tinosorb.
Another reason mineral sunscreens have gained popularity is their reputation for being reef-safe. Ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate, found in many chemical sunscreens, have been alleged to contribute to coral bleaching, but this is hotly debated. It’s more likely that ALL sunscreen ingredients, along with other environmental factors, contribute to the coral reef situation.
For people with acne, rosacea, or melasma, mineral sunscreens also tend to be less irritating and more stable. They’re a great everyday choice, especially for those with reactive or mature skin. If you’re using sunscreen for your children, read my guide on sun protection for babies and young skin.
My rule of thumb is simple: wear sunscreen every day, rain or shine, indoors or outdoors. The light coming through your car window or office window still contains UVA.
Apply generously (most people use far too little), and reapply every two hours if you’re outside or after swimming or sweating. Sunscreen only works if you use enough of it, and often enough.
If you’re unsure where to start, I recommend exploring mineral-based formulas that combine high protection with good cosmetic elegance. On our Gendler Dermatology product page, you’ll find a selection of sunscreens that I personally trust and use in my own daily routine.
If you’re noticing new sunspots, persistent redness, irritation, or fine lines that seem to be deepening despite daily sunscreen use, it may be time to reassess your regimen. A dermatologist can help you tailor your skincare routine and recommend sunscreens that fit your skin type and needs.
Both mineral and chemical sunscreens have their place, but understanding how they work and what to look for on the label is key to truly protecting your skin.
The goal isn’t just to avoid sunburn; it’s to prevent the long-term damage that leads to premature aging and skin cancer.
If you’re ready to find a sunscreen (and skincare plan) that really works for you, book an Anti-Aging Skin Consultation at my New York City office. Let’s get your skin protected, radiant, and healthy, 365 days a year.
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